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About Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo is the largest tourist destination in Costa
Rica's small Caribbean coast. Other nearby communities are
Cahuita, Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.
The vibe here is laid-back, Caribbean-style with a great
diversity of people living here and visiting here. For more info
on the Puerto Viejo vibe, read Puerto Viejo -
Not for Everyone.
And what about the weather? You can check current conditions
and find out about what's the norm for different times of the
year on the Weather page.
Or maybe you're looking for more info
about the site or how to contact us.
Puerto Viejo - Not for Everyone
Colin Brownlee
writes about life in Puerto Viejo
and how it isn't the vibe everyone will love but if it's you, then you may fall
in love with it.
Colin answers some of the myths and mistruths spoken
about Puerto Viejo, things that tourists are often told about
the Caribbean in San José or the Pacific Coast hotels.
Why would you live there? There is nothing down there.
This was a comment from an American expat that lives in central valley of Costa
Rica where most expats that decide to live in Costa Rica live. In some
sense, he is right. Puerto Viejo has no golf courses, marinas, country
clubs, tennis courts, and almost no swimming pools and very few hotels even with
A/C.
There are many rumors and half-truths like this about the Caribbean side of
Costa Rica so I decided that I would share my own observations after living down
here for a few years.
Personally I like it the way it is as it has kept the development down to a
minimum and the "Disney set" out and tends to cater to a more "down to earth
traveler" I think the rumors and myths have served many of us who have chosen to
live here very well.
It's all blacks down there.
Actually a recent survey by the Ministry of Health showed
that about 80% of the local inhabitants are indigenous Bri Bri.
But they tend to live out of town and not be very visible. Maybe about
30-40% of the remaining local population are African Caribbean
who are
descendants from Jamaican workers that arrived here just over a century
ago. Their presence adds a very interesting vibe to the local culture. The
Caribbean would in no way be what it is without their presence. The rest of the
population is Tico and a huge smattering of expats that are mainly from Europe, South America and Canada. Almost all from
the USA are real lefties. Last census in early 2002, there were 49 different
countries represented out of just over 2000 people.
If you'd like to learn more about the local indigenous
culture, check out this
photo album or
this informative article by Heidi Gradall.
They are all god damn pot smoking, "tree hugging" hippies down
there.
Yes, there are many "bohemian types". Their presence over the years
has been invaluable to keeping the place real laid back and
always interesting.
If you look at almost any place that is desirable to live in US, Canada and many
parts of Europe (i.e. San Francisco and NYC versus Oklahoma or Arkansas) you
will see they have a huge alternative culture that many people find comfort in
living with. As for the tree huggers: thank (what ever you believe in) that they
are here. There are still many first growth trees to appreciate.
It rains all the time.
Yes, this is a rain forest, and guess what? You get rain. But if
you look at annual inches per year you
will see that it rains more in many popular places on the Pacific than the
Caribbean, this
chart shows a comparison of the different areas of Costa Rica.
You'll note that the South Caribbean coast is actually one of
the driest parts of the country!
The main difference being is that rain on Caribbean is usually spread
more out over the year. Also most don't realize that the majority of the rain
here comes at night and usually is very welcome. Click
here for
more on local weather.
The roads are bad and it is really dangerous.
After being all over Costa Rica, I can assure you the roads here
are in just as bad condition here as anywhere else. In fact much of it is better
because Limon is a port city and it is the main truck route from Limon to San
Jose. So the roads on that stretch are quite good which accounts for over 2/3rds
of the trip (no, it is not the California Interstate 5). However, yes, the road
from Limon to Puerto Viejo is in bad shape and full of pot holes. But if you
take care, it is totally passable with any vehicle. On top of that, the trip
here is broken down to 3 sections you will pass through. You will go through the
mountains (very high up) then through the many banana and pineapple plantations
and then follow the coast all the way down to Puerto Viejo from Limon. Most find
the drive or bus ride very enjoyable. But if you are one who is only after a
destination in life and does not enjoy the journey, Jaco on the Pacific might be
better for you. There are regular flights to there from San Jose airport.
There is so much crime down there.
This is one the myths that I get the biggest kick out of. How
anyone could think that Puerto Viejo is more dangerous than places like Quepos,
Jaco or even Tamarindo is beyond me. Hell we won't even
discuss comparing it to
San Jose. Yes, there is a drug element. But what city does not have that. Unless
you choose otherwise, you can use the only thing that Nancy Reagan was famous
for and "Just Say No". It has always worked for my years of living here. I think the other reason there is a perception that crime is worse is because of the
African Caribbean population. Petty theft is a real problem, but violent crimes
against tourists are not the norm.
It's hot and humid down there.
Yes, it is humid, but I find the Pacific much hotter. In fact the
temperature here is way more consistent and is very rarely so hot that you feel
incapacitated. Most find the temperatures quite comfortable.
Is it Paradise?
Well, it is as close as I have come this far in my life. But while
living here is not always easy, although, I can assure you, it always
interesting.
Additional comments from our visitors about About Puerto Viejo
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We have been to PV many, many times -- even have some land there. Just want you to be aware that there isn't any public transportation. There are taxis... but they don't just cruise around like NYC -- you have to call and wait -- usually a long time. We always rent a car and have never had a problem - just don't leave anything in it. If you're going in two weeks the fishing, diving and snorkeling should be good -- take about a 15 minute drive south to Punta Uva and snorkel there -- gorgeous right from the beach. Speaking of beaches... you'll want to use the one at Cocles just south of PV -- nicest beach and only one with a lifeguard. La Isla Inn has a bar for cold drinks and has a very friendly staff. Have fun!