Puerto Viejo Satellite Map, Info and Forum

About Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo is the largest tourist destination in Costa Rica's small Caribbean coast. Other nearby communities are Cahuita, Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.

The vibe here is laid-back, Caribbean-style with a great diversity of people living here and visiting here. For more info on the Puerto Viejo vibe, read Puerto Viejo - Not for Everyone.

And what about the weather? You can check current conditions and find out about what's the norm for different times of the year on the Weather page.

Or maybe you're looking for more info about the site or how to contact us.

Puerto Viejo - Not for Everyone

Colin Brownlee writes about life in Puerto Viejo and how it isn't the vibe everyone will love but if it's you, then you may fall in love with it.

Colin answers some of the myths and mistruths spoken about Puerto Viejo, things that tourists are often told about the Caribbean in San José or the Pacific Coast hotels.

Why would you live there?  There is nothing down there.

This was a comment from an American expat that lives in central valley of Costa Rica where most expats that decide to live in Costa Rica live.  In some sense, he is right.  Puerto Viejo has no golf courses, marinas, country clubs, tennis courts, and almost no swimming pools and very few hotels even with A/C.

There are many rumors and half-truths like this about the Caribbean side of Costa Rica so I decided that I would share my own observations after living down here for a few years.

Personally I like it the way it is as it has kept the development down to a minimum and the "Disney set" out and tends to cater to a more "down to earth traveler" I think the rumors and myths have served many of us who have chosen to live here very well.

It's all blacks down there.

Yes, about 1/3 of the local population are African Caribbean are descendants from Jamaican workers that arrived here just over a century ago.  Their presence adds a very interesting vibe to the local culture. The Caribbean would in no way be what it is without their presence. The rest of the population is BriBri indigenous and Tico. Then there is a huge smattering of expats that are mainly from Europe, South America and Canada. Almost all from the USA are real lefties. Last census in early 2002, there were 49 different countries represented out of just over 2000 people.

They are all god damn pot smoking, "tree hugging" hippies down there.

Yes, there are many "bohemian types". Their presence over the years has been invaluable to keeping the place real laid back and always interesting. If you look at almost any place that is desirable to live in US, Canada and many parts of Europe (i.e. San Francisco and NYC versus Oklahoma or Arkansas) you will see they have a huge alternative culture that many people find comfort in living with. As for the tree huggers: thank (what ever you believe in) that they are here. There are still many first growth trees to appreciate.

It rains all the time.

Yes, this is a rain forest, and guess what? You get rain. But if you look at annual inches per year in John Howells book "Choose Costa Rica", you will see that it rains more in many popular places on the Pacific more than the Caribbean. The main difference being is that rain on Caribbean is usually spread more out over the year. Also most don't realize that the majority of the rain here comes at night and usually is very welcome.  Click here for more on local weather.

The roads are bad and it is really dangerous.

After being all over Costa Rica, I can assure you the roads here are in just as bad condition here as anywhere else. In fact much of it is better because Limon is a port city and it is the main truck route from Limon to San Jose. So the roads on that stretch are quite good which accounts for over 2/3rds of the trip (no, it is not the California Interstate 5). However, yes, the road from Limon to Puerto Viejo is in bad shape and full of pot holes. But if you take care, it is totally passable with any vehicle. On top of that, the trip here is broken down to 3 sections you will pass through. You will go through the mountains (very high up) then through the many banana and pineapple plantations and then follow the coast all the way down to Puerto Viejo from Limon. Most find the drive or bus ride very enjoyable. But if you are one who is only after a destination in life and does not enjoy the journey, Jaco on the Pacific might be better for you.  There are regular flights to there from San Jose airport.

There is so much crime down there.

This is one the myths that I get the biggest kick out of. How anyone could think that Puerto Viejo is more dangerous than places like Quepos, Jaco or even Tamarindo is beyond me. Hell we won't even discuss comparing it to San Jose. Yes, there is a drug element. But what city does not have that. Unless you choose otherwise, you can use the only thing that Nancy Reagan was famous for and "Just Say No". It has always worked for my years of living here. I think the other reason there is a perception that crime is worse is because of the African Caribbean population. Petty theft is a real problem, but violent crimes against tourists are not the norm.

It's hot and humid down there.

Yes, it is humid, but I find the Pacific much hotter. In fact the temperature here is way more consistent and is very rarely so hot that you feel incapacitated. Most find the temperatures quite comfortable.

Is it Paradise?

Well, it is as close as I have come this far in my life. But while living here is not always easy, although, I can assure you, it always interesting.

Additional comments from our visitors about Puerto Viejo

What are people saying about us?Puerto Viejo     Brent from Forest City, NC     June 19, 2008

My wife and I attended a wedding in Puerto Viejo on Father's Day 08. This was the first vacation of my life where I truly didn't want to come home. Aside from missing my dogs I would have been happy finding a local job and staying put. The vibe is great. The people are great. The non-locals are travelers not tourists. I suggest we let the tourists ruin the Pacific side and keep the travelers coming to the Caribbean side. Shhhh, don't tell anyone how great Puerto Viejo is. When the word gets out someone will try to develop it.


What are people saying about us?john from santa ana, costa rica     June 12, 2008

"loved it, loved it, loved it." My wife and I are from Southern California and have spent many years traveling all around the caribbean. Puerto Viejo is a "Little Saint Martin." on this side of the Caribbean The drive to Puerto Viejo is spectacular. You drive through the true National Rain Forest. We have lived on the pacific side and found what I like to consider "Sodom & Gomorrah". My wife and I have not made PV home, but plan to do so in the near future. We've lived all over Costa Rica so we know alot about Costa Rica living. We run our own real estate company in Santa Ana, Costa Rica and would be more than happy to help you find your gem.


What are people saying about us?Air-Conditioning     Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     May 30, 2008

Not many places have it, most people prefer just to enjoy the breezes, it rarely gets very hot. But there are a couple places:

Cabinas Almendros
Hotel Puerto Viejo


What are people saying about us?Need air conditioning for health issues     angel from west palm beach     May 29, 2008

Are there any hotels in the area that have air conditioning? We will be visiting friends that work at Earth University and stay in Guadiples
Help they have travelled


What are people saying about us?Meg from Nashville, the states     May 10, 2008

You are so right on about those questions. I've only been living in Costa Rica for about 4 months, but i always tell new people i meet or travelers i meet that puerto viejo is my favorite place. I love it there. I think the better part of its charm is that its not full of luxury hotels, resorts, golf courses and the like. Ugh. Anyway, so for that reason, the weather, the people, the laid back vibe, and the beaches, Puerto Viejo is my favorite place in the world and you hit the description spot on. Thanks for bringing to light some truths and not so truths about the place and hope i see you around!
meg


What are people saying about us?RE: packing up and heading ...     Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     April 21, 2008

Kendra, Good luck on your move here!

This seems to be a common enough question and networking is definitely the way to go down here to find a long term rental.

I've created a new Long Term Rentals category on the Forum. You should post there as well. There's a whole "Puerto Viejo Classifieds" thing there that you and others can use.


What are people saying about us?We're packing up and heading to Puerto Viejo     Kendra from Berkeley, CA.     April 21, 2008

Greetings,
I am a mother of 3 young children and I have made the decision to move to Puerto Viejo at the end of June. We have a friend who has been traveling to PV for 8 years now and who also has family there. I feel that although it is "do-able" that life in the States has become exhausting with the stress of over-inflation in housing, gas, and food. I have been inspired to move and experience life so that my children will appreciate the world they live in. I am looking for a long term house to rent. Does anyone have any suggestions, contacts or advice. It would be greatly appreciated.
one love. K


What are people saying about us?Waldorf School     Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     April 17, 2008

I'm not sure if this is current, but the phone numbers at least shouldn't have changed:

ceppwaldorf@yahoo.com or at (506) 2750-0754 or 2750-0075.

Note that my understanding is that it is no longer an official Waldorf school but still follows similar methodologies.


What are people saying about us?waldorf school     karen from dallas texas     April 17, 2008

I'm a former Waldorf music teacher. I have also taught English as a foreign language, in Germany. Lived 8 years in Norway too - plus a year in New Zealand. I'm fed up with the U.S. and intrigued with Costa Rica. Would someone please give me contact info. for the Waldorf school in (near?) PV? Thanks so much!


What are people saying about us?Jamming In Paradise     Jonathan from Cleveland, Ohio     April 01, 2008

Started going down in 1997 for Honey Moon. Was going to purchase property and regret it. We have farm in Turrialba.(Which is nice place to stop on way to Beach)At least twice a yr go to Puerto Viejo. it so much a better scene than Pacific. It is like he wrote you can just say NO!We being repeat timers it is amazing how much more stuff we find when we go. Hope to be back in June.


What are people saying about us?PV     Luke from Oklahoma     March 02, 2008

Thought we would let you know we have travled all over the caribbean, south america and europe and have bought property in PV and love it there. I liked your comments with the exception of Oklahoma not being desirable. I would think that you have never been to Oklahoma and if you had you would know that it is a very affordable and wonderful place to homebase out of. Most importantly Oklahoma is a beautiful place and has a few lefties of its own.


What are people saying about us?family life in PV     connie ross from Al. USA     January 07, 2008

Living in Puerto Viejo with my husband and children was a breath of fresh air for us. I loved the freedom we all had and it is completely safe for children. We loved the Waldorf school in Playa Chaquita and the many interesting people we met. It was a lovely yr. and a half.


What are people saying about us?Living the life     Eve from California     January 07, 2008

I feel in love with Puerto Viejo and the rest of this side of the country. Much to my Tico familys protest not to go visit due to ignorance and prejudice I did anyways with my own family in tow. We feel in love with the lifestyle and the people. We will be returning this March in hopes of finding our future home. Pura Vida I'm finally going to be a full fledged Tica. Thank you about the insight of school just one of the many things I have to research. Any more good info shoot it my way.


What are people saying about us?RE: Is PV for families?     Colinsito from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     December 19, 2007

This is a very loaded question and very difficult to answer. But in a nutshell... If you are attached to a traditional way of life as the majority of North Americans see it, then NO, it is not a place for the majority of North American families.

if you looking to raise your children in an "outside the box" type of atmosphere, then Yes, Puerto Viejo might be right for you.

There is a Waldorf type school in Playa Chiquita and then there is also a international school in Cauhita. They have bus service from Playa Chiquita for the students.

As for crime... while there is very much property crime, it is not the place you read about school students opening fire with a machine gun on their fellow classmates.

So, I guess parents that are less concerned about their kids cell phone or IPOD and more into a less pre-fab enviroment, would fare out well.


What are people saying about us?Is PV for families?     HM from Canada     November 25, 2007

Hello- we are seriously considering relocating to Puerto Viejo/Playa Chiquita, but have a few questions, if you don't mind.

We have children - is the area safe for young families? Are there many families in the area? Are there any international schools nearby?

I thank you for your time and look forward to your reply.


What are people saying about us?Hope to come back soon     Katee from Gearhart, OR, USA     November 07, 2007

I haven't been to Puerto Viejo in 3 years, but I remember our time there fondly. We hope to come back this winter ... but has it changed much? We stayed in Punta Uva, at Carr's place (casitas de punta uva ... email is down) We would like to stay somewhere simalar, but don't know where to look. We are older (a very young 56 & 62), so don't want tooooo much late night broo haa haa. Any suggestions?

Katee


What are people saying about us?PV Vibe     Hatch from Puerto Viejo     November 04, 2007

A very honest summary of life here. Most of the negative comments you here about this area, such as blacks and the culture in general are actually referring to the things which place so popular - culture and character.

If you want a sterile environment without culture or character, there's PLENTY of other destinations that are all white and all tidy. But if you want to learn from other cultures and learn something about yourself in the process, come to Caribbean Costa Rica, because those are the real treasures this place has to offer - the people and the environment. You can always find places that are perfectly secure where everything is perfectly planned, with perfectly crowded beaches and perfectly artificial surroundings.

Here things aren't perfectly planned, just as nature itself is never structured the way we think it should be. But I'll take a spontaneous get-togethers on the beach with a bunch of people playing guitars, african drums and ukuleles and with coconut fish soup cooking in a kettle over a fire with fish caught two hours ago - over rows and rows of beach chairs in perfect alignment with people wearing so much sun block you can't TELL what color they are.

There's a reason why so many people loved visiting Jamaica before it got so built-up and crowded. The Jamaican/Afro-Caribbean culture here mixed with Tico, indigenous ("indian") and european/american expat influences makes this one of the most unique blends you'll find anywhere.

If you view that as a negative, then PV is not for you. But if you are looking to break out of the ordinary, or the rut you find yourself in with your current modern lifestyle, then you just may find something of real value here.


What are people saying about us?Perfect!     Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     September 01, 2007

Colin—you always have the most unique no-holds-barred outlook on life! Thanks for sharing!


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