Puerto Viejo Satellite Map, Info and Forum

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About Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo is the largest tourist destination in Costa Rica's small Caribbean coast. Other nearby communities are Cahuita, Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.

The vibe here is laid-back, Caribbean-style with a great diversity of people living here and visiting here. For more info on the Puerto Viejo vibe, read Puerto Viejo - Not for Everyone.

And what about the weather? You can check current conditions and find out about what's the norm for different times of the year on the Weather page.

Or maybe you're looking for more info about the site or how to contact us.

Puerto Viejo - Not for Everyone

Colin Brownlee writes about life in Puerto Viejo and how it isn't the vibe everyone will love but if it's you, then you may fall in love with it.

Colin answers some of the myths and mistruths spoken about Puerto Viejo, things that tourists are often told about the Caribbean in San José or the Pacific Coast hotels.

Why would you live there?  There is nothing down there.

This was a comment from an American expat that lives in central valley of Costa Rica where most expats that decide to live in Costa Rica live.  In some sense, he is right.  Puerto Viejo has no golf courses, marinas, country clubs, tennis courts, and almost no swimming pools and very few hotels even with A/C.

There are many rumors and half-truths like this about the Caribbean side of Costa Rica so I decided that I would share my own observations after living down here for a few years.

Personally I like it the way it is as it has kept the development down to a minimum and the "Disney set" out and tends to cater to a more "down to earth traveler" I think the rumors and myths have served many of us who have chosen to live here very well.

It's all blacks down there.

Actually a recent survey by the Ministry of Health showed that about 80% of the local inhabitants are indigenous Bri Bri. But they tend to live out of town and not be very visible. Maybe about 30-40% of the remaining local population are African Caribbean who are descendants from Jamaican workers that arrived here just over a century ago.  Their presence adds a very interesting vibe to the local culture. The Caribbean would in no way be what it is without their presence. The rest of the population is Tico and a huge smattering of expats that are mainly from Europe, South America and Canada. Almost all from the USA are real lefties. Last census in early 2002, there were 49 different countries represented out of just over 2000 people.

If you'd like to learn more about the local indigenous culture, check out this photo album or this informative article by Heidi Gradall.

They are all god damn pot smoking, "tree hugging" hippies down there.

Yes, there are many "bohemian types". Their presence over the years has been invaluable to keeping the place real laid back and always interesting. If you look at almost any place that is desirable to live in US, Canada and many parts of Europe (i.e. San Francisco and NYC versus Oklahoma or Arkansas) you will see they have a huge alternative culture that many people find comfort in living with. As for the tree huggers: thank (what ever you believe in) that they are here. There are still many first growth trees to appreciate.

It rains all the time.

Yes, this is a rain forest, and guess what? You get rain. But if you look at annual inches per year you will see that it rains more in many popular places on the Pacific than the Caribbean, this chart shows a comparison of the different areas of Costa Rica.  You'll note that the South Caribbean coast is actually one of the driest parts of the country! 

The main difference being is that rain on Caribbean is usually spread more out over the year. Also most don't realize that the majority of the rain here comes at night and usually is very welcome.  Click here for more on local weather.

The roads are bad and it is really dangerous.

After being all over Costa Rica, I can assure you the roads here are in just as bad condition here as anywhere else. In fact much of it is better because Limon is a port city and it is the main truck route from Limon to San Jose. So the roads on that stretch are quite good which accounts for over 2/3rds of the trip (no, it is not the California Interstate 5). However, yes, the road from Limon to Puerto Viejo is in bad shape and full of pot holes. But if you take care, it is totally passable with any vehicle. On top of that, the trip here is broken down to 3 sections you will pass through. You will go through the mountains (very high up) then through the many banana and pineapple plantations and then follow the coast all the way down to Puerto Viejo from Limon. Most find the drive or bus ride very enjoyable. But if you are one who is only after a destination in life and does not enjoy the journey, Jaco on the Pacific might be better for you.  There are regular flights to there from San Jose airport.

There is so much crime down there.

This is one the myths that I get the biggest kick out of. How anyone could think that Puerto Viejo is more dangerous than places like Quepos, Jaco or even Tamarindo is beyond me. Hell we won't even discuss comparing it to San Jose. Yes, there is a drug element. But what city does not have that. Unless you choose otherwise, you can use the only thing that Nancy Reagan was famous for and "Just Say No". It has always worked for my years of living here. I think the other reason there is a perception that crime is worse is because of the African Caribbean population. Petty theft is a real problem, but violent crimes against tourists are not the norm.

It's hot and humid down there.

Yes, it is humid, but I find the Pacific much hotter. In fact the temperature here is way more consistent and is very rarely so hot that you feel incapacitated. Most find the temperatures quite comfortable.

Is it Paradise?

Well, it is as close as I have come this far in my life. But while living here is not always easy, although, I can assure you, it always interesting.

Additional comments from our visitors about About Puerto Viejo

What are people saying about us?Traveling to P.V. in 2 weeks - recommendations     Dani from Washington DC     August 10, 2010

Hi All...Just want to say this is a great, resourceful website...thanks. My boyfriend and I are staying at a house in Puerto Viejo beginning August 22. We're undecided about a rental car - thinking we may just want to rely on public transportation. Can anyone recommend good canopy tour companies and perhaps some cool day trips (using public transportation)? We definitely want to chill during our vaca, but are also active and want to explore a lot too. Thanks!


What are people saying about us?Valerie from USA     August 22, 2010

We have been to PV many, many times -- even have some land there. Just want you to be aware that there isn't any public transportation. There are taxis... but they don't just cruise around like NYC -- you have to call and wait -- usually a long time. We always rent a car and have never had a problem - just don't leave anything in it. If you're going in two weeks the fishing, diving and snorkeling should be good -- take about a 15 minute drive south to Punta Uva and snorkel there -- gorgeous right from the beach. Speaking of beaches... you'll want to use the one at Cocles just south of PV -- nicest beach and only one with a lifeguard. La Isla Inn has a bar for cold drinks and has a very friendly staff. Have fun!


What are people saying about us?Jess from Macon Ga     August 09, 2010

Just want to say... I love it there... About to make the thrid trip there.. This time my 3 year son will be with us.. Cant wait.. Just need some info on schools.. If any one knows...


What are people saying about us?JP from Las Vegas     July 05, 2010

Greetings,

I'm looking to move to Puerto Viejo around October. Does anyone have a cheap room they are renting out? I would be staying for at least 3 months and more likely 6 months. I would also pay the full amount of rent up front if given a good deal.

Thanks


What are people saying about us?Leah     July 04, 2010

I'm considering visiting PV in November with some friends around Thanksgiving. What's the weather like in November--would it be a good time to go? Also, one of my friends suggested the Rocking J's hostel, do you have any insight on that and what it's like staying there (people, vibe, going into the city, etc.)? Thanks so much!


What are people saying about us?November...     PV Resident     July 05, 2010

November is a rainy month. You should see weather chart on this sight under the "about" link. It will give you a good idea what to expect.

as for Rockin J's... That is really a personal opinion. I think if you are a "party girl" you will like it. However as far as hostels go, I think Pagalu is most popular. Personally I like the serene vibe that Olah and Kathy offer at Vista Verde.


What are people saying about us?malnurished animals?     Phebe     June 19, 2010

Hi. I am animal sensitive. I loved Montezuma, but saddened by hungry, often pregnant animals, (which I tried to help). I loved Barcelona years ago, but was upset by live chickens hanging by their legs, for example. But I don't like really touristy areas.
Are there stray, hungry dogs and cats roaming in Puerto Viejo? Thanks.
Also, if we came in mid July, would there be enough sun and swimming days? Would be be ok renting a place without a/c?
And is high speed internet available? Thanks again.


What are people saying about us?Hungry animals     margo     June 23, 2010

I know the feeling of heart wrenching when you see hungry animals! There are some in all places in Central America. You cannot get away from that! There are less homeless in P.V , but there are some. It is SAD! Alot of the dogs roaming around are owned by people that live there.

Yes...you can rent a place without ac.....we always do. Fans are great and they are in most places. I take lots of cool showers or just swim on the beach or local swimming spots. July ...it can rain some , but mostly in the afternoons or night. No...it is not too touristy at all. I stay in Playa Chiquita and love it there. There are busses to town or you can ride bikes too. (a little long). Come .....you will LOVE it . The beaches are beautiful and so are the people. Don not leave stuff unattended on any beach and try to get a security safe in your room.


What are people saying about us?Great Place to Visit     Mike T. from Southeast Missouri, USA     June 13, 2010

We visited Puerto Viejo for 8 nights in early April.

We live in the mid-Mississippi valley where heat and humidity are legendarily awful in the summer as are poisonous plants and a huge variety of sucking, stinging and poisonous insects and arachnids.

I am happy to report:

1) At similar temperature (33C or so) we found Puerto Viejo much more comfortable than SE Missouri, especially at night. The "jungle A/C" (a ceiling fan) in our cabin was all we needed for sleeping in perfect comfort.

2) I encoutered very, very few biting insects even when hiking through jungle in shorts, no shirt and little if any active insect repellant. Even better, there are no plants like poison ivy or oak to which I am extrordinarily sensitive.

3) The sun is INTENSE! One of my traveling companions insisted he could spend some time in the sun on the beach with just some oil for sunblock! Wrong! 10 minutes per side and he had a painful, blistering burn.

4) The mood is exquisitely laid back and informal and the diversity of people reminded me of the Rambles in Barcelona. Those who smoke green will find high company which may contribute to the generally delicious food served at restaurants.

5) The waves tend to be large and rip currents are very common. The "coasta rocka" reefs are SHARP. Body surfing in nearly 2 meter waves was fun but I was certain to ensure there were no reefs ahead of me! The calmer coves tend to be very crowded. Great snorkeling, mostly in the occasional calm shallow among the reefs.


What are people saying about us?Spanish classes?     Sammy from Norway     June 04, 2010

I'm going to Costa Rica in the middle of Septmember, and was thinking of taking Spanish lessons the first two weeks. I read about PV and think it sounds like a nice place! Can you recommend some schools over there? Is it possibilities for homestays while I'm having my spanish lessons?


What are people saying about us?Spanish Classes     Nanouk Brouwer     August 11, 2010

Hi Sammy, I am the owner of Claro Spanish school in Puerto Viejo. I can offer you classes and accommodation in the schoolresidence, not with a guestfamily. Prices are $160 per week for grouptuition 4 hours per day, $8 per night accommodation in a dorm and $ 15 per night in a single room. We offer 6 x per week activities (free of charge) like: junglewalk, salsa dance class,BBQ, massage workshop, Costarican cookingclass, dayexcursion in the weekend to Manzanilo National Park or Cahuita National Park.
You can mail me at: info@s-l-t.com
Best regards, Nanouk


What are people saying about us?Tours during rainy season     Sherri from Denver, CO USA     April 22, 2010

How do they handle the tours during the rainy season? Do they still do tours in the rain, or do they just do them in the early part of the day? The ones I'm interested in are the animal sanctuary/reptile viewing tours from Puerto Viejo. Are these still as good during the rainy season? I'd like to find out before I book a long stretch of time there in September.


What are people saying about us?Puerto viejo     margo from texas p.v.     April 23, 2010

You are going at the most beautiful time of year! Not much rain at all in September and the seas are calm. The animal sanctuary is all indoors...so no worries there. Don't worry...just go and have fun. It will all be for naught!


What are people saying about us?Weather in Sept/Oct is the dry season!     Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     April 23, 2010

Make sure you check the weather page as well. Sept/Oct is the rainy season on the Pacific Coast and the central valley but not in the Caribbean. Seasonality is much more nuanced here but Sept/Oct are actually the driest months of the year historically.


What are people saying about us?Need reservations for September travel?     Sherri from Denver, CO USA     April 23, 2010

Thanks so much for your replies--they are so very helpful! I'm curious if I need to book a place in advance in mid-September or if I will be able to find economical places when I get there? I was looking at a place with communal kitchen and inexpensive rooms, but don't know if I should try and book it in advance? I am not really fond of planning ahead unless I have to.


What are people saying about us?Schools for young children     courtney from usa     April 22, 2010

We are thinking about moving to PV and are interested in enrolling our children in school there. Unfortunately, they have no Spanish speaking experience. Are there schools in PV that have both spanish and english?


What are people saying about us?community life     Sarah from DC, US     April 20, 2010

You guys do an amazing job of responding to everyone's questions: Thank you for all the things I haven't had to type in!
Next: I'm hoping to stay at least 2 or 3 months in CR. in PV, how are (cheap) monthly rentals?
and are there regular Yoga classes? (Volunteering in some way is also important so - thanks for the link to The Bridge.)


What are people saying about us?Places to stay in Puerto Viejo     Dean from Corvallis, Oregon     April 18, 2010

I just booked a week trip to CR in middle of June. I'm looking for a very relaxing, comfortable place to stay in PV. I'd prefer to be right on the beach, have a beach view, or at least a very short walk to the beach. I just finish my MBA and need peace and tranquility for a week before heading back to work. Any suggestions?


What are people saying about us?Colin from Playa Negra, Puerto Viejo     April 18, 2010

I think Magic Moon Beach Bungalow would be ideal for you. Private beach cottage with all amenities and wireless. You can view it at www.MagicMoonCR.com


What are people saying about us?Costa Rica travel     Sherri from Denver, CO, USA     April 16, 2010

I am a single female traveling alone to Costa Rica in September. I am trying to decide between Esterillos Oestes in the Central Pacific, Tamarindo in the north Pacific, and Playa Cocles in Caribe Sur. I tend to be an out-of-the-box type of traveler. Get a backpack and go. But I also want to be safe. I will either have money on my person or locked in my cottage (where I will be staying alone). After reading about Puerto Viejo, I'm now leaning toward this town. I will be going in mid-September. Where will I find the mildest weather? Do I need to worry about hurricanes? Any suggestions and information would be useful. I'm driving myself crazy making decisions.

What are the best tours out of Puerto Viejo? I love snakes and am interested in seeing a lot of them. I know there are serpentariums not far from Jaco and Allujela.


What are people saying about us?Doug Dosdall from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica     April 16, 2010

While the Caribbean Coast doesn't have the same clearly delineated wet/dry seasons like the Pacific Coast does, September is historically one of the driest months of the year. See the weather page for details. On the other hand that's clearly the wet season (euphemistically called the "green season" on the Pacific side). Costa Rica is blessed by a geography that seems to make it not a target of hurricanes.

As far as snakes go, you're in luck. The Jaguar Rescue Center right at Playa Cocles includes an extensive serpentarium.


What are people saying about us?Safety in Cochles Beach for a single woman     Sherri from Denver, CO USA     April 16, 2010

Thanks for your reply, Doug. I would likely be staying at a private cottage on Cochles Beach. I read that you should not bring valuables to the beach. What about house keys? Is it safe to leave passport and valuables in a typical cottage? Also, is it safe to walk or bike around after dark alone? For instance, would I be able to bike into Puerto Viejo for dinner and get back after dark?

Is it generally safe for a single female who takes the common sense safety precautions?


What are people saying about us?Safe for a single female?     margo from austin puerto viejo     April 17, 2010

Hi there. Have your passport and $ in a security box where you stay. Always have a copy on you. Take nothing to the beach. Only a towel, water snack and flipflops. Put keys in the sand...no $ . Where shorts with a zipper and put $ and keys in them (idea) In the evening , take the bus in to town and take a taxi home. That is what we do from Playa Chiquita and it is perfect.There is a 5:00 bus or a little after. Do not walk or ride you bike on the road when it gets really dark. The drivers cannot see you and they are swerving to avoid holes in the road . Puerto Viejo and Cocles are both lovely places. You will feel mor comfortable once you get there! Believe me...I travel alone too and LOVE it there! Relax and enjoy , just take care of your belongings . Have fun!


What are people saying about us?Safety in Cochles Beach for a single woman     Sherri from Denver, CO USA     April 17, 2010

So is it safe to walk around the town of Cochles after dark? Will I be safe alone in a cottage?


What are people saying about us?carlotta from ohio,usa     April 14, 2010

Hello!

Im planning to visit Veronica's Place in early June. I'm a young woman traveling to PV alone. Any advice or things I should know?

Thanks!


What are people saying about us?Thanks for the info     Tim from Nor Cal     April 12, 2010

That was really informative, thank you. I learned more in just a few moments reading your comments than I have in months of researching other sites. Great job. I am planning on visiting CR in the near future. If it is everything you (and many others) say, I really may consider relocating. Can't wait


What are people saying about us?moving     Kristin from denver     April 02, 2010

I am a massage therapist and I will be moving to Puerto Viejo in a few months time. I was wondering how easy it would be to find a job down there.


What are people saying about us?What to expect for Easter week in P.V.?     margo wilkinson from usa, puerto viejo     March 23, 2010

We have never spent Easter week in Puerto Viejo and we were wondering what it is like? Will there be tons of people everywhere? Will restaurants and stores be open every day, or not? Can you buy liquor every day of the holiday or should we buy beer before the holiday starts? Just wondering ? Thanks for your help!


What are people saying about us?Are gays welcomed?     jboy from USA     March 21, 2010

I was just wondering if there is any gay social life there? Also, probably more importantly, are the locals accepting? Thank you!


What are people saying about us?Gays in Puerto Viejo     Gay Guy in PV from Puerto Viejo     March 22, 2010

There is an increasing presence of gay community and travelers to Puerto Viejo. Popular places that openly welcome gay visitors include Koki Beach restaurant & Hotel Banana Azul. But they are not the only places courting the gay traveler.

Puerto Viejo is a great place for people looking to experience Caribbean / Costa Rican culture in a beach community atmosphere. It tends to be popular with gays in relationships and who are middle aged.

Guys looking to hook up with local guys would not do well. The community is very naive when it comes to gay culture. There are also no venues to facilitate meeting other single gay people. My advice if this is important to you, hang out in San Jose. No shortage of "offerings" there.


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